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  • Jonathan Swift*

The question raised by the great Alinea debate—do little children belong in any restaurant that doesn’t serve food on plastic trays or send a clown around the tables twisting balloons into animals?—is not a new one.

Alinea’s Grant Achatz told me roughly the same thing. There have been other crying babies at Alinea, he said; the problem with this one was that the four adults at the table refused to do anything about it. “It almost felt like it was people projecting this entitlement. Like ‘We’re here, we can do whatever we want, we paid for it,’ without any concern for the people around them.”