Don’t expect smoky southern-style ribs at this sleek Chinatown spot at the far south end of Wentworth. These spares—Special Heaven’s Grilled Ribs—are of the fall-off-the-bone variety, steamed and then flash-fried before getting slathered with a brain-tingling compound of typical Sichuan spices: garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, green onion, green chile, and red chile oil. At $13.95 for a stack, these meat sticks provide the cheapest legal out-of-body experience at your disposal.